Journey with JunyuanNew ZealandOceania
Abel Tasman National Park was the final stop of my New Zealand South Island journey, and it couldn't have felt more different from where I started. After weeks of jagged mountain ranges, turquoise glacier lakes, and relentless elevation gain, the north of the South Island greeted me with something altogether softer: lush native forest tumbling down to golden sand beaches, crystal-clear sea, and a pace of life that felt deeply restorative and nourishing. 🌿
Abel Tasman is easily one of the most beautiful places I've ever travelled to. Between a few days settling into Kaiteriteri by the water, a day out on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, and time in Nelson at either end of the visit, the week added up to something that felt less like sightseeing and more like genuinely resting somewhere spectacular.
Getting to Abel Tasman National Park without a car takes a bit more planning than the rest of the South Island, but it's completely doable once you understand the logistics.
Nelson is your entry point into the area. The easiest way in is to fly from Christchurch, which is only one hour via a regional flight, and avoids what would otherwise be close to an 8-hour bus journey with a change. From Nelson, you can then take the Better Bus to either Marahau or Kaiteriteri, which are the 2 main gateways into the national park itself.
‼️ One important thing to know: the Better Bus only runs one morning departure from Nelson, and one afternoon departure back from Marahau / Kaiteriteri. This means you'll almost certainly need to spend at least one night in Nelson before heading in, and possibly another on the way out too. When booking your accommodation in Nelson, also make sure it's close to one of the Better Bus stops listed on their website.
💡 If you're really short on time, the Better Bus can also work as a day trip from Nelson into Abel Tasman without needing to stay overnight.
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I stayed in Nelson twice, once on the way in and once on the way out. For the first night I made the mistake of booking somewhere too far from any of the Better Bus pick-up spots, which made the next morning a bit stressful. I then learned that staying around Nelson town centre is much easier when travelling without a car.
On the way back, I stayed for a couple of nights at Delorenzo's Studio Apartments, where the Better Bus dropped me off directly (the driver is quite flexible if your hotel is on the way or close to one of their listed stops). My room was quiet, modern, with a fully equipped kitchen, and close to the shops, restaurants, and the lovely Maitai River walk. Would definitely recommend.
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Marahau and Kaiteriteri are the 2 best bases for exploring Abel Tasman National Park. Marahau sits right at the start of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, and is where most sea kayaking tours depart from.
I stayed in Kaiteriteri for 4 nights, and it ended up being one of the most peaceful stretches of my whole trip. It's slightly larger than Marahau — more of a small beach town — with beautiful golden sand beaches for swimming, a small convenience store if you're self-catering, and a rhythm to daily life that made it incredibly easy to slow down. Waking up to sunrise over the sea each morning, with just waves and birdsong, was genuinely magical. 🌅
I stayed at Kaiteri Apartments and Holiday Homes and absolutely loved it. There are a few other options in the area that are worth considering and great for exploring the national park:
Compared to other destinations in New Zealand, the accommodation options in Abel Tasman are more limited and do get booked up very quickly. So reserve well in advance if you can!
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Abel Tasman is endlessly gorgeous
The Abel Tasman Coastal Track is the unmissable experience of the whole region. There is simply nothing quite like walking through lush native forest — giant fern trees on either side, swing bridges over streams, beautiful bird songs along the way — and then suddenly emerging onto a pristine golden sand beach with glistening turquoise water stretching out ahead of you. The contrast catches you off guard every single time. 🌊 On the beach you'll see plenty of wekas running around — don't be fooled by their cuteness, these mischievous and sneaky little creatures will steal your food!
Most people visit the coastal track on a day trip: take a water taxi out to a beach, do a self-guided walk for a few hours, and get picked up at a different beach further along the coast. You can also do a multi-day hike staying at campsites on the coastal track, though that requires booking well in advance.
I took a water taxi out to Torrent Bay and walked to Onetahuti (~4 hours), which was one of the most scenic sections of the coastal track. There were some undulating hills but overall, nothing too strenuous. And like most hikes I've done in New Zealand, the track was very well maintained and signposted.
Sea kayaking is a brilliant way to explore the coastline from the water: past granite headlands, into secluded bays, and with a decent chance of spotting seals or dolphins along the way. Most tours depart from Marahau, though some include a water taxi to a point further up the coast.
If your legs need a rest from all the hiking, a scenic cruise is a lovely, low-effort way to take in the coastline and spot New Zealand fur seals lounging on the rocks.
Abel Tasman Coastal Track is easily one of the most stunning trails I've done
Kaiteriteri has two golden sand beaches with calm, clear water, which actually connect at low tide. They're perfect for a proper do-nothing day: swimming, reading, sunbathing, eating a real fruit ice-cream, repeat. Little Kaiteriteri is the quieter of the two, with a soft and wholesome vibe. One day I found plenty of old people painting on the beach, which I found to be so adorable! 💛
The Maitai River walk is peaceful riverside path just outside Nelson city centre. There are even some swimming holes along the way for you to jump into in the summer! It's a lovely way to fill a half-day without doing anything too strenuous.
A short uphill walk from Nelson leads to a viewpoint marking the geographic centre of the country, with panoramic views over the city, the coastline, and the surrounding hills. Go at sunset if you can!
Gorgeous Little Kaiteriteri Beach
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Looking back, Abel Tasman was quite the perfect finish to my South Island trip. It showed me a different side of New Zealand with its uniquely stunning scenery, and gave me something the rest of the itinerary hadn't quite managed: proper rest in a genuinely beautiful place. The magical coastal track, the chill beach days in Kaiteriteri, even the slow afternoons strolling by the river in Nelson — all of it felt earned after everything that came before. If you can make it up here, the extra logistics are absolutely worth it. 🌿💛
👉 Explore the full New Zealand South Island itinerary here
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