Journey with JunyuanJapanAsia
Hakone is one of those places that feels made for slowing down. 🍃 Just outside Tokyo, it’s an easy escape into mountains, hot springs, art museums, and scenic views of Mt. Fuji on a clear day. Whether you visit at the start or end of your trip, it’s the kind of place that gently resets your pace. 🤍
This 2-day Hakone itinerary shows how I spent 1 night exploring the area’s highlights — from relaxing in onsen to wandering an outdoor museum and exploring mountain trails — and why I felt I could easily stay for longer.
Hakone is very easy to reach from Tokyo. From Shinjuku, you can take the Odakyu Romancecar directly to Hakone-Yumoto (about 1.5 hours), or use local Odakyu trains if you’re not in a rush. If you’re coming via the Shinkansen (for example from Nagoya or Kyoto), get off at Odawara Station and transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway.
I highly recommend getting the Hakone Free Pass, which covers the famous Hakone Loop (more on that below) and most local transport including trains, cable cars, ropeways, buses, and the pirate boat across Lake Ashi. It saves both money and the hassle of buying individual tickets. 🎫
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Private onsen at Tensui Saryo with mountain view
Most visitors base themselves in Hakone-Yumoto, which is convenient and well connected. I chose to stay in Gora, a quieter mountain area higher up, right along the Hakone Ropeway route with easy access to Owakudani and Lake Ashi.
I spent one night at Tensui Saryo, a ryokan just two minutes from Gora Station. My room in the newer annex had a private onsen bath on the terrace overlooking the mountains — and soaking there in the cold December air was honestly unforgettable. ♨️
Both the kaiseki dinner and breakfast were beautifully presented and felt like experiences in their own right. I left feeling completely relaxed, and slightly regretful I hadn’t booked two nights instead.
If you’re visiting Hakone, I’d strongly recommend staying at least one night in a ryokan to fully enjoy the onsen culture! 🧖🏻♀️ Though note that a lot of nice ryokans get booked out quite easily, so do plan in advance.
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Owakudani Valley
One of the most popular things to do in Hakone is the Hakone Loop — a scenic circular route linking the area’s highlights using a mix of transport. You’ll ride the Hakone Tozan mountain railway as it zigzags through forested slopes, transfer to a cable car climbing higher into the hills, glide above volcanic terrain on the Hakone Ropeway, cruise across Lake Ashi on the sightseeing “pirate” ship 🏴☠️, and use local buses to complete the loop. The journey itself is part of the experience, with constantly changing views along the way.
Stops include:
The full loop can be done in half a day, though it’s worth taking your time to explore each stop and take in the scenery!
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Old Tokaido Road
If you want something quieter and more active, Hakone has fantastic hiking and trail-running routes — and in winter, they felt wonderfully peaceful.
I followed a section of the historic Old Tokaido Road from Motohakone, once part of the Edo-period highway connecting Kyoto and Edo. The trail winds through forest paths and cedar-lined sections that still retain an old-world atmosphere. Once I reached Hata-juku Ichirizuka, I turned towards Mt Byobu and headed towards Gora. Along the way, I passed:
After finishing in Gora, the reward was obvious: a long soak in the onsen.
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I was welcomed by Rodin's Balzac as I walked into the Open-Air Museum
Hakone has an impressive collection of museums that blend art, architecture, and nature beautifully.
Some highlights:
Even if you only pick one, it’s worth carving out time for art here — the settings alone are stunning and unique.
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Living the onsen life!
This is non-negotiable.
After a day outdoors, there’s nothing better than sinking into a hot spring bath while cool mountain air drifts around you. If you’re staying in a ryokan, you’ll likely have access to private or gender-separated baths. If not, there are plenty of public onsen that offer day-use entry.
This is also what makes a winter stay in Hakone extra enjoyable!
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Hakone may be close to Tokyo, but it feels worlds away. In just a day or two, you can ride through mountains, soak in volcanic hot springs, walk historic trails, and (if you’re lucky) catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. Whether you’re easing into your Japan trip or winding it down, Hakone is the perfect place to slow your pace and simply enjoy the scenery.
👉 Explore the complete 2-week Japan itinerary here
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