Journey with JunyuanJapanAsia
If you’re visiting Japan around New Year, don’t miss Hatsumode — the first shrine visit of the year. It’s one of Japan’s most cherished local traditions, where people pray for good fortune, pick up charms, and celebrate the fresh start of a new year. I happened to be Kamakura on New Year's Eve, a charming coastal area with its plethora of temples and shrines, and it was a fantastic place to experience the tradition of Hatsumode firsthand.
Hatsumode (初詣) is the Japanese tradition of visiting a shrine or temple during the first few days of the New Year. Families, friends, and individuals come to pray for health, success, and happiness in the year ahead. Many visitors also draw fortune slips (omikuji), purchase lucky charms, and collect special stamps (goshuin) from the shrine.
In Kamakura, this tradition is lively and approachable, giving a genuine glimpse into local life and New Year festivities.
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Tsurugaoka Hachimangu is the most popular shrine in Kamakura for Hatsumode. Located in the heart of town, it’s within a short walk from Kamakura Station, and easily reachable from train stations along the Enoden Line.
I went to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu on New Year's Eve and it was extremely crowded though atmospheric. If you prefer a quieter experience, a lot of smaller temples and shrines in the area also celebrate Hatsumode. Hase-dera could be a good option though probably still busy. Some other alternatives you could consider are Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine, Kenchō-ji, and Engaku-ji.
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Hatsumode at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu
Right before New Year's Eve, I could already see food stalls lining up the approach and getting ready for the night's celebration. Before midnight, the shrine is buzzing with a festive, communal vibe. You'll find snacks like yakitori, taiyaki, and sweet treats while you wait to enter. Make sure to bring enough cash as the stalls are cash-only!
About 30 mins before midnight, the organisers will tell you in a megaphone that you can now start queuing. The announcements are in Japanese only, but you can just follow the crowd 😂 Finish your food before joining the queue as you can't bring any food or drinks in! The lines will be pretty long, especially on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day, but it's also quite fun and vibe-y. They let people through in batches, so you'll likely be standing on the same spot for a while then suddenly the line is fast-moving.
The visit to the main shrine for prayers won't commence until midnight, so if you join the line before then, you'll be doing the New Year countdown while waiting with others. It's really good vibes and definitely a special moment to count down into the New Year at the foot of a Shinto shrine!
Once you've made it to the main shrine and it's your turn: toss a coin into the offering box, bow twice, clap twice, join your hands together and offer your prayer, and finish with a deep bow.
Do not linger at the shrine as the line needs to move swiftly. But you can take your time in the surrounding areas to browse the shrine stalls, pick up good luck charms, draw an omikuji fortune, or collect a commemorative stamp. Again, these stalls are cash only. You can also have a wander in the garden if you like — it's still surprisingly quiet there even with the crowds.
My fortune slip
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If you're hoping to pay Tsurugaoka Hachimangu a visit for Hatsumode, staying near Kamakura Station would give you not only proximity to the shrine (only 10 mins walk!) and all the food options nearby, but also convenience to explore the rest of the Shonan Coast on the local Enoden train line.
I stayed at Kamakura Seizan around the New Year's for 2 nights. It's a relatively new hotel just a few minutes’ walk from Kamakura Station, and the minimalist design and calm atmosphere made it a really comfortable base for exploring. As someone who has a strict bed-time routine and never stays out late, I found it quite ideal to just walk to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu right before midnight on New Year's Eve, experience the excitement, and stroll back and still get a good night's sleep!
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Hatsumode in Kamakura is a simple but memorable way to experience a local tradition, whether you’re there for the atmosphere, the rituals, or just to see how the new year begins in Japan. If you’re planning a visit, you can find more ideas in my 2-day Kamakura itinerary, including temples, coastal walks, and sunset spots. And if Kamakura is part of a bigger trip, then take a look at my 2-week Japan itinerary through Central Honshu for a slower, nature-led route across the country.
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